Saturday 28th June 2014

My morning began with a longish old walk around Muxia. I’d gone in search of bread (following the suggestions in the Cruising Association’s App), but at 08:20, it was shut. Eh? I walked back towards the supermarket, also shut. Eh? So, I turned about and walked to the other port, where we’d walked past a Panaderia… And? Open! I bought an artsean loaf, which if stood on its end would be half the size of George, and took it back to Whinchat. I had certainly earned my coffee! We were talking about the difference between our experiences in Spain and France. In France, they begin early, boulangeries are open from around 06:30, and markets are fully operational by 08:00. In Spain, it barely manages to lift its head until 09:00, as evident from Muxia, and markets, well, they are setting up about 10:00. Of course this means a shift in time, things are wound up by 13:00 in France, and in Spain it seems to be more like 15:00. I think I’d be more French than Spanish, but in both cases, I wish we had the same proliferation of bread shops, panaderia and boulangeries, where you can go in and buy lovely doughy, artesan breads, which won’t be fit come the end of the day. There are fewer preservatives, less refined materials, so I am able to enjoy bread that I just can’t at home. Hey ho!

I decided that I would avail myself of the laundry facility at the marina, but Marcus (the Marineros) was nowhere to be seen. The bar manager was there, so I asked him, and he explained how it worked. All good. I selected a “super rapido” cycle (15minutes, not quite sure how effective it was, but washing on board is no longer an option given the break in weather), and wandered back to the boat. At the allotted time, I walked back to find the washing machine was dead… and no sign of the bar manager. Hmmmm…. He then appeared from the equipment shed, on the phone, waving some metal tool at me. My washing had frozen just about since I walked away, a power issue, as when it flicked back on, the washing still had 13 minutes to go. I stood and watched it, as the bar manager (need a name!) went back to his work. The power failed, again, but this time he knew how to fix it. He came back and said to me, in English, that the coffee machine would have to “stop” whilst the washing was done!! I didn’t like to tell him that I wanted to dry my clothes too. So, I hung around until the washing bit was finished, then transferred it to the dryer, pumped some more coins in and waved that I’d be back in 45 minutes. “Big problem for us,” he said, “we need to contract more power.” Yes, not ideal, the marina users can either have coffee or do their laundry, but not both! When I returned to collect my dry laundry (“super seco”), it was hot and wet. No water seemed to have been taken out, and the tray was bone dry. It wasn’t worth putting more money in it, so guess what? Whinchat again turned into a Chinese laundry, but with rain in the air and high humidity, it was unlikely that it was going to dry fast. So annoying.

Pete and I had lunch (more bread!) and then decided to go and try and find some WiFi in one of the cafes. It is another difference in Spain. No one seems to care that you can nurse a coffee for an hour whilst you chat to your friend, read the paper or busy yourself with the WiFi. There is no sense that you’re being cheap, or taking up space. Most of the people in the cafe lingered as we did, so that I was able to upload a series of blogs and photos (I will write them outside of the website and then only load them up when we are connected). From there, we walked back out to the headland and across the ‘back’ of Muxia, and out along the Camiño route for a way – as far as Pete’s summer sailing shoes would allow, to the town’s football pitch, right by the coastline, and if the stands were on the other side, you’d have the most amazing view over the ocean! In getting to this point, Pete has spied a hill, and what looks like a path, and therefore we might try that tomorrow – if we stay.

Excitement of the afternoon was the arrival of the Coastguard in an enormous boat – Rodman 101, which has moored where the two crazy French guys were. It looks like they are in for the night. One of the crew took a look at our boat, but did only that. When we went up for a drink at the newly opened marina bar (only customers), he seemed to be inspecting the fishing tackle of an old boy on his little motor boat. Is that what they do? We mean to try and find out what they do and what their powers are.

The rest of the day was lazing around and reading the Saturday Times – just brilliant to indulge in a little of home. The late afternoon drifted into the evening where it was Remoska curry for supper… tried and tested, and the last of the jar, so no curry until Blighty! Some supermarkets stretch to Mexican style products, but curry? Not a chance!

We will assess the weather and see what we feel like doing in the morning. Weather forecasts today suggest that the wilder weather is due to come back on Monday, a south-westerly, which would make the anchorages in the Ria very uncomfortable. That decision can wait until tomorrow.

Today’s haiku:

early morning stroll
men following their bellies
me, searching for bread


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