Thursday 5th June 2014
The sun did make an appearance today, despite threats to the contrary. It was certainly warm, even when it started raining. Today is due to be the best of the next few days, so we thought we’d exhaust the tourist trappings of Baiona. That’s not expected to take long; it’s a bit like being in Fowey, with better beaches!
For the first time since we arrived in Spain, I walked up to the bread shop to buy fresh bread (centeno) for breakfast. It was a lovely leg stretch, and I took a small detour to peer over the wall at the sea. It all looked pretty benign. I’d passed a couple of joggers about to head around the fortress, and a lady working out on the outdoor gym equipment. It made me feel quite sluggish, and for the first time in a long time, I wished I’d packed my runners. It would make an awesome run, around the headland, looking at the sea. Pete told me that I could do that at home, around Pendennis Point – he even said he’d make breakfast for me when I’d got back. I might have to take him up on that offer! Anyway, back on board with the bread, we had breakfast without a run, just wonderful doughy bread with a very crunchy crust.
We decided that we’d tackle the laundry tomorrow when the rain was due to set in, leaving today free to explore Baiona. I’d read about a tasteless statue (according to a guide online) to the Virgin (Virgin of the Rock) somewhere behind Baiona, but we didn’t know where it was, and we certainly couldn’t see it. You can climb it, and apparently the views are amazing. We stopped off at the Tourist Office for directions, coming out with a map, and indications that it was covered in scaffolding and closed. Presumably another monument subject to health and safety. We decided to head up to it anyway, taking the south road out of Baiona, before heading up into the hill behind the town. It was a short walk, 15 minutes, but we’re out of practice on going up! My nordic walking route is going to feel tough when I get back home! It was covered in scaffolding, with workmen grinding away at it, however, despite not being able to climb to the top, the views are still superb.
We clambered back down a different path, to join the road further out of Baiona, where we continued for a couple of kms. Unfortunately it was on a cycle path at the edge of the main road, with cars zipping past, but that aside, it was a nice walk along the rocky coastline. The swell seemed to be less than when we’d sailed in, and we sat watching some divers in the water for a while, wondering what they were doing. By the time we’d got back in, Pete noticed a string of school kids heading to The Pinta – it was not the time to visit that attraction, so we headed into the old town, vaguely looking for somewhere to take lunch. It was slightly early (not even 13:30) so we weren’t in any rush. There are many bars and cafes in Baiona, most of which had blokes propped against the bars, or outside tables, with a beer or a glass of vino tinto, bread positioned next to them for the lunch table waiting at home, so no one was eating. A restauranteur tried to drag us into his place, but we resisted, and made a grand sweep back towards the old town. We were just debating whether to go and buy more bread, when Pete spotted a good potential. Busy, inside, so we took a table midst locals eating, and ordered. We shared a salad, and then had cod with potatoes and onions. Good, but not as good as I’d enjoyed in Pobra! As usual befits these places, a TV was on in the corner, sound down low, but we could see that the coronation of Philippe had been announced – 18 June. Not long!
By the time we’d done with lunch, it had started raining, so we headed back to Whinchat, in theory to wait until it had passed. We hoped to go to The Pinta, but neither of us wanted to do that in the rain, so when we went out again, it was to go shopping. The fridge was bare of anything to make a meal, so we had to go out.
It’s turned into a very damp evening, with rain as heavy as we’ve heard! That’s going some. We both went to bed glad that we were securely tied up. We knew that the worst of the rain and wind was yet to come, and Whinchat wasn’t going anywhere, even if she did rock us to sleep!
drift from the dimly lit bar;
wives waiting for bread